Slice of Life: Red Onions

By Eileen Goltz

Issue of June 26. 2009 / 4 Tammuz 5769

First question I’m always asked about onions is why do they make you

cry and what can you do about it. It’s a chemical kind of answer. Onions contain complex sulfur compounds. When you cut into an onion, two chemical reactions take place. First cut into an onion releases its enzymes which comes in the form of strong odor. The cutting also releases allicin (sulfur gas) that irritates the eyes, nose and mouth and can make you look like a running faucet.

Many a cook has her own method for avoiding tears while peeling onions. I’m talking everything from wearing scuba goggles to peeling and chopping the onions while holding them under running water (not so easy to do). While the running water trick actually works, it’s not really  practical. I have a better suggestion: Put the onion in the refrigerator until it’s very cold and then chop it. Yes, this does take a little bit of prior planning but think of the tissue you’ll save. Very cold onions seem to have less of an effect on the eyes and nose.

Onions come in a variety of colors: white, yellow, and red (or purple); flavors range from mild and sweet to strong and REALLY strong. Yellow onions are full flavored and work in just about any recipe. The red onion, my favorite, is a good choice when fresh or lightly cooked ones are called for (wonderful for grilling and char-broiling). White onions are typically used for milder dishes.

Most onions are sold loose by the pound, although some types are sold

in five or 10 pound bags. Look for onions that feel dry and solid all over, with no soft spots or sprouts. The neck should be tightly closed and the outer skin should have a crackly feel and a shiny appearance.

Onions should be stored in a cool, dry, open ventilated space away from bright light. Onions absorb moisture so please don’t store them under the sink or near anything toxic. Also, it’s not a great idea to store onions near potatoes because potatoes give off moisture and produce a gas that causes onions to spoil more quickly.

Like I said, red onions are my favorite and they are available year 'round. So while the red onion would be my first choice for the following recipes, any color can be substituted.

ITALIAN ZUCCHINI AND RED ONION

(dairy or pareve)

Great hot or at room temperature

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 4 (1/2-inch-thick) slices red onion (about 1 large)
• 2 pounds small zucchini, cut lengthwise into (1/4-inch-thick) slices
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1/3 cup (about 1 1/2 ounces) parmesan cheese (optional)
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh oregano (or 2 teaspoons dried)

Prepare grill to medium-high heat. Combine the olive oil, red onions

and zucchini in a bowl. Sprinkle the mixture with 1/4 teaspoon salt

and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; toss gently to coat. Arrange vegetables in a

single layer on a grill rack; grill 4 minutes on each side or until

zucchini is tender and vegetables are well marked. Remove zucchini

from grill; reduce grill heat to medium-low. Grill onion an additional

5 minutes or until tender. Combine zucchini, onion, and vinegar in a

large bowl, tossing to coat. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon

salt, remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper, cheese, and oregano. Serves 4 to

6.

MEXICAN RED ONION SOUP

(pareve or meat)

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 6 large red onions thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon of sugar
• 1 teaspoon of oregano, dried, crumbled
• 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
• 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/3 cup orange juice
• 1 1/2 tablespoons flour
• 7 cups of vegetable or chicken stock
• 1/2 teaspoon of salt
• 1/4 teaspoon of pepper

In a stockpot or 5-quart Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over low heat.

Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes or

until softened and slightly colored. Sprinkle the onions with the

sugar, oregano, coriander, cumin, allspice and cinnamon; cook for

another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the red wine

vinegar and orange juice and cook for another 4 minutes. Sprinkle with

the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Stir in the

stock and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Adjust the heat so that

the mixture simmers gently, cover, and cook 20 minutes longer. Stir in

the salt and pepper.

GARLIC WHITE BEANS WITH RED ONIONS AND SPINACH (pareve)

• 2 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 2 bunches spinach (about 1 pound), washed
• 2 15-ounce cans white beans (cannellini beans), rinsed and drained
• salt to taste
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 red onion, peeled, halved and sliced
• freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the red onion, season lightly with salt and pepper and cook for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Turn up the heat and cook until the onion turns light brown on the edges.  Lower the heat to medium, add the white beans and cook until the beans are thoroughly heated.  Add the spinach and balsamic vinegar. Continue cooking until the spinach is just wilted. Adjust the seasonings and serve. Serves 4.

RED ONION TART

(dairy or pareve)

Delicious warm or cold

• 3 tablespoons butter or margarine
• 1 lb 10 oz red onions, sliced very
• thinly
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3 fl oz white wine
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (1/2 teaspoon dried)
• Salt and pepper
• 12 oz puff pastry
• 4 fresh figs, quartered (optional)
• walnut oil (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425. Grease a 9 inch tart pan with butter. Slice

the onions very thinly. Melt the butter in a large frying pan and cook

the onions for about 10 minutes until very soft, take care not to

brown the onions. Add the wine, vinegar and thyme and cook until all

the liquid has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut 2

discs of pastry to the size of the tart dish. Cover the pastry with

the cooked onions mixture. Place a disc of pastry over the onion

mixture and tuck the edges in. Prick the top of the pastry all over

with a fork, (this will allow the steam to escape during cooking and

therefore keeps the pastry crisp).  Bake in the preheated oven for 15

minutes or until golden and risen. Place a large plate over the tart

dish, invert and shake firmly to release the tart. Serve warm with the

figs and drizzle with a little walnut oil. Serves 4.

GREEN BEANS WITH CARAMELIZED RED ONIONS

(pareve or meat)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3 medium red onions (about 1 3/4 pounds), cut into 16 wedges each
• 1 pound green beans, trimmed
• 1/2 cup vegetable or chicken broth
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 2 teaspoons light brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook,

stirring occasionally, until golden, 10 to 15 minutes.  Meanwhile,

bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil. Add green

beans and cook, uncovered, until crisp-tender, 6 to 7 minutes. Drain.

Add broth to the onions; cook for 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar, brown

sugar, salt and pepper. Add the beans, cover and cook for 2 minutes.

Serve warm. Serves 8.