Upscale yet comfortable at Talia’s

My cousin on the Upper West Side had disapproving things to say and one of my Twitter followers posted negativity as well. But I went undeterred to experience Talia’s Steakhouse for myself.
This was not my first time at Talia’s, and each time I have been there the experience has been slightly different. When the restaurant first opened, the UWS posh scene had not yet reached 92nd street and Talia’s was a place for destination dining. As the UWS made its slow crawl further uptown, it became a more regular dining establishment for kosher patrons looking for a high end eat. Now as New Yorkers find themselves in an economic rut, Talia’s has adapted to keep the upscale feel while catering to people in a tighter financial position.
Talia’s was just as I remembered it from previous years. Dark wood and exposed brick seem to meld together in the intentionally dusky light that provides the phantasmal dating atmosphere so beloved by the shidduch scene. Only an hour and a half after Shabbat had ended, the restaurant was half full. What I found most interesting was that there were a number of tables filled with non-Jews. This is a rare phenomenon in the kosher world. Kosher restaurants have mostly kosher patrons but when you have other customers coming in, that’s when you know you’re doing something right.
My wife and I were seated and the live music began. We ordered an Elvi Classico wine and waited for someone to come and take our meal order. This is where I began to understand the negativity. Talia’s weak spot is with its slow service. Customers overwhelmed the staff and I sat for almost 40 minutes waiting for my order to be taken. I can see why this would annoy most people.
When my server finally came to take my order, I asked for a smattering of both Talia’s upscale cuisine and the food that I knew I would want if it were two a.m. and I had been drinking.
I started with the buffalo chicken wings that were fried, crispy and carried a seriously spicy kick. I also had the beef and mushroom medley that is served in filo dough surrounded by mashed potatoes smothered in thick gravy. This dish was earthy and sweet and felt vaguely like comfort food. For the main course, I had a perfectly cooked steak and a thick medium rare burger covered with soy cheese. The burger was so perfectly cooked and complimented by the parve soy cheese that I consider it to be one of the five best burgers in the kosher world. My wife ordered the barbecued short ribs. When biting into them you get an initial crunch from the bark that comes from the grilling process, which is followed by a sweet honey and sesame flavor in the meat that is so tender it slides right off the bone.
Overall I really enjoyed both my meal and the ambiance. The food is well made and has a very comfort food sort of feel. My visit was not the same as my preceding visits, and made me consider the restaurant’s evolution and the realization that it is better as a stylish local haunt rather then a snooty eatery. Talia’s caters to all budgets and tastes while firmly preserving the class it has maintained for the past two decades. What’s even better is the knowledge that I don’t need to be in the mood for duck confit or roast lamb to go to Talia’s anymore.
If I am craving something as simple as wings and a burger, Talia’s Steakhouse is there to provide it. But I will make sure I don’t have any pressing engagements to rush to after the meal.

Zechariah Mehler is a widely published food writer and expert in social marketing. Follow him on Twitter @thekoshercritic