Celebrating the delights of fall’s harvest

The summer is over, there’s been no Indian summer warmth (so far) this year, and the harvest season is in full swing. Farm stands have dragged out their apple bins and workers are busy filling them with new kinds of apples every day. We have as many as 15 to 20 varieties each fall — it smells delicious!

The corn is still coming in, but in the last dribs and drabs, still delicious, but not the taste of August corn. The tomatoes are almost totally harvested, and those bins are now being filled with fall’s favorite squashes and gourds, home-grown leeks, onions, fragrant fresh shallots, and home-grown garlic.

The ancient calendar celebrated some of the holidays near the time of the harvests of the year. Sukkot celebrates the harvests of many varieties of foods that we just ate in the sukkah. Out of necessity, ancient people ate seasonally and feasted on the bounty of whatever crops they gathered. Each season provided different crops and the people ate accordingly. No pomegranates in winter, or apples in the heat of summer.

Now, seasons mean practically nothing as far as fruits and vegetables are concerned. There are very few fruits or vegetables that we cannot buy year-round. (I can think of Cherries and Satsuma oranges that have limited seasons — two of my favorites that have relatively short seasons.) But staples like lettuces and so much more are available to us any day of the year. We are blessed with so much healthful food at our fingertips whenever we want it.

We are also blessed with the ability to get our produce from many countries throughout the world. We can buy hundreds of varieties and new ones are introduced often. Monk fruit, ugly fruit, star fruit, Romanescu, white sweet potatoes — so many varieties that are relatively new. Check the labels/tags on your produce and maybe have the kids keep track of how many countries help feed us through the year. Also, remember that eating seasonally can be a delicious harvest delight, but eating all kinds of produce all the time will help get that rainbow of foods into your diet throughout the year.

Butternut Squash Crumble (Dairy)

I love this recipe adapted from David Lebovitz’s book, “My Paris Kitchen.” Great with fish! You can make it pareve by leaving out the cheese and substituting pareve margarine for the butter.

2 Tbsp. butter (adds flavor, but you can use all olive oil)

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil (4 Tbsp. if not using butter)

4 lbs. butternut squash, cut in 3/4-inch dice

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, finely minced

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots, more to taste

1 cup no-chicken stock or veggie stock

2 Tbsp. fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely minced

Crumble topping:

3/4 cup breadcrumbs

1/2 cup cornmeal (I did not have any, so I used all breadcrumbs)

1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

1 Tbsp. minced fresh sage leaves

1 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

4 Tbsp. butter, chilled and cubed

1 large egg

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously grease a 3-quart glass baking dish and set aside.

Place 1 Tbsp. each of the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Heat until the butter is melted. Add half the squash and half the thyme. Season with salt and pepper and sauté, stirring often, until the squash begins to brown on several sides. Add half the shallots and cook until they are softened. Add 1/2 cup of the stock and cook for 30 to 60 seconds to reduce the liquid a bit. Scrape the squash into the prepared baking dish. Repeat this process with the remaining squash and other ingredients. (NOTE: It is important to do this in two batches so that the squash browns evenly.)

Press the squash firmly into an even layer. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 30 minutes, or until the squash is very soft when you pierce it with the tip of a knife.

While the squash is baking, make the topping.

Place the breadcrumbs, cornmeal, parmesan, sage, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to blend. Add the cold butter and pulse until crumbly. Add the egg and pulse just until the mixture begins to clump together.

Remove the squash from the oven, carefully remove the foil and crumble the topping evenly over the squash. Lower the temperature to 350 and return the casserole to the oven. Bake for about 20 minutes or until golden. Serves 6 to 10.

Zucchini, Roasted Tomatoes, Eggplant and Fresh Herbs (Pareve)

Great as a side dish or mixed with spiral zucchini or pasta. Add mushrooms and ers, if you like.

Extra to virgin olive oil

12 (or more) plum tomatoes or 30 to 40 large cherry tomatoes

4 to 5 medium or large zucchini or yellow summer squash

2 to 3 eggplants, peeled

1 small jar sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped OR

Sliced fresh tomatoes, 3 to 4

1 Tbsp. each: Fresh basil, minced

Fresh thyme, minced

Fresh parsley, minced

6 to 12 cloves garlic, finely minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with foil and then parchment paper. Set aside. Generously brush the paper of one pan with olive oil.

Cut each plum tomato in half lengthwise and then in long quarters. Place the tomatoes on one of the prepared sheets, close together. Brush or drizzle with olive oil. Roast until charred in spots and shriveled. Remove from the oven and cool.

Brush the second pan with olive oil. Peel and slice the eggplant in half-inch thick slices. Cut each slice in quarters. Place on the pan and drizzle with olive oil. Roast until soft and slightly browned. Remove from oven and cool.

While the eggplant is cooking, cut the sundried tomatoes into small pieces. Set aside. Slice the zucchini in third to inch thick slices and cut slices in halves or quarters. Set aside.

When cool, scrape the tomatoes and juices into a large bowl. Add the eggplant and zucchini. Mince the garlic and herbs and add to the bowl. Add the sundried tomatoes and 1 to 2 Tbsp. of the oil from the jar. Toss gently to mix. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour into the prepared pan, cover tightly with foil and bake at 350 degrees, 30 to 40 minutes. Uncover and roast an additional 15 to 25 minutes until liquid evaporates and some pieces are dark, but not burned.

Serves 8 to 12. Leftovers are great mixed with pasta or mashed as a spread.

Roasted Squash and Caramelized Onion Galette (Pareve or Dairy)

This is a great appetizer or side dish and also perfect for sukkah eating as it can be eaten hot or barely warm.

Crust:

2 cups unbleached flour or half white and half whole wheat flour

1-1/2 sticks butter or trans-fat free pareve margarine, cut into very small cubes

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. (scant) sugar

1/2 cup ice water or ice cold orange juice

Filling:

1 lb. butternut squash, cut into half-inch cubes

3 Tbsp. dark brown sugar

4 large onions, white or red, peeled, cut in half and thinly sliced

2 tsp. fresh sage, finely minced

1 tsp. fresh parsley, finely minced

4 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the Dough:

Mix the flour, salt and sugar to together. Add the margarine and, with a pastry blender or two knives, cut the margarine into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. You can do this in a food processor with one or two pulses.

Remove from the processor and place in a bowl for the next steps. Make a well and add about half of the ice water or juice. Blend with a fork until the water is evenly incorporated. Add more liquid, one Tbsp. at a time, until the dough just holds together. Mold the dough into two discs, about 5 inches in diameter and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

While the dough is chilling, place the squash cubes in a zipper-type bag. Add two Tbsp. of the olive oil and shake to coat. Place on a foil lined, greased rimmed cookie sheet. Sprinkle with the brown sugar, and bake at 400 degrees until fork-tender. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a large skillet and add the remaining olive oil. Add the onions and sprinkle with a little salt. Heat over low heat, stirring often until the onions are caramelized and deep, golden brown, about 30 minutes. Gently toss the squash cubes with the onions Add the sage and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Assembly:

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on a generously floured table or counter. Quickly and gently roll out the dough until it is about 9 inches in diameter. Place on a parchment lined, rimmed baking dish. Repeat with the other disc.

Mound half the filling mixture in the middle of each disc, leaving about 2 inches from the edges, free of filling. Carefully lift one edge of the dough up and fold over the filling. Lift another section up and fold it over the first part, making a pleat or crimp so the dough will stay put. Continue until all the dough is “pleated” up around the filling leaving a “hole” about 5 inches in diameter in the middle that is not covered with dough. Make sure the pleats are tight so that they won’t open during baking. Repeat with the second galette.

Bake at 400 degrees until golden, about 25 to 35 minutes. Each galette serves about 4 to 6 as a side dish and 6 to 8 as an appetizer. To serve, cut into thin, pie wedge slices. (NOTE: For a dairy meal, you can sprinkle a bit of your favorite cheese over the squash halfway through baking.)

Asparagus or Broccoli Cheese Puffs (Dairy)

I have made these for as long as I can remember. They are delicious for adults as an appetizer and for kids as a side dish or even an afterschool snack. Kids love them.

1/4 to 1/3 lb. asparagus; thin stalks work best OR

1/4 to 1/3 lb. broccoli florets

3/4 cup milk, whole or 2%

5 Tbsp. butter, cut into pieces

3/4 cup unbleached flour or half whole wheat, half white

Pinch black pepper

1/2 tsp. onion powder

3 extra-large eggs at room temperature

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 to 3/4 cup shredded Gruyere or Cheddar cheese

OPTIONAL: Pinch cayenne pepper, 1 clove grated garlic

Place a bowl of ice water in the sink or next to the stove. Break off the tough ends of the asparagus. Cut the spears into quarter inch pieces. Fill a sauté pan with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a full boil and add the asparagus. Reduce heat to a strong simmer and cook until crisp- tender, 1 to 3 minutes. Use a spider skimmer or slotted spoon and move the asparagus pieces to the ice water. Repeat with the broccoli, cutting it into very small florets.

Remove the cooled vegetables to a paper bowl lined plate or bowl to dry. Whisk the flour, black pepper, onion powder, and cayenne pepper, if using, into a small bowl. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line two cookie sheets with parchment. Lightly butter the parchment paper.

Place the milk and butter in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the grated or pressed garlic, if using. As soon as the milk boils, remove it from the heat and add the flour all at one. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens and begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Transfer into a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Let cool for ten minutes, but no more than 15.

Add the well-drained asparagus or broccoli and the cheeses to the batter and mix well. Or divide the batter in half and mix half with the broccoli and half with the asparagus. Drop round teaspoonfuls onto the parchment and put both sheets into the oven at the same time. Bake until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Let cool for 3 to 5 minutes and remove from the parchment to a serving dish. Serve warm. Makes about 3 dozen puffs.

Broccoli with Garlic and Capers (Pareve)

2 to 4 garlic cloves, oil roasted, or oven roasted

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/8 cup capers, rinsed well (more if desired)

1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes (more or less as desired)

1-1/2 lbs. broccoli, cut into bite-sized florets

Salt and pepper, to taste

To oil roast garlic: Take a cup of garlic cloves and add to a small saucepan. Add enough canola oil to cover by about 1/2-inch. Place over medium heat and bring to a low boil. Reduce to a strong simmer and cook until the cloves turn light to medium golden. Let cool completely, drain the oil into a container and use for salad dressing. Drain the cloves on paper towels. Refrigerate until needed.

In a large serving bowl, mash the garlic with a bit of salt until you have a smooth paste. Add the oil, red pepper flakes, and capers. Set aside.

Bring water to a boil in a large pot. Peel the stem end of the broccoli and cut into small bite sized pieces. Add to the water and cook, uncovered, until crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, draining all the water. Add to the bowl with the garlic, oil, and capers. Toss, season with salt and pepper, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Variations: Add some sliced, roasted red peppers, black olives, or softened, diced, sun-dried tomatoes. Serves 6 to 8.