The Kosher Critic: Wolf and Lamb

The Kosher Critic

by Zechariah Mehler

Issue of September 3, 2010/ 24 Elul 5770

A close friend once told me “I don’t consider myself to be in a serious relationship with a girl until after I have brought her on a date to Wolf and Lamb.” Intrigued by his attitude, I immediately made plans to visit this relationship-affirming restaurant. My first impression helped me understand why my friend would feature Wolf and Lamb so prominently in his dating routine. Wolf and Lamb Steakhouse, located on 10 E 48th Street in Manhattan, is an inviting restaurant with exposed brick and an French-style open kitchen described by it’s owners as a restaurant featuring classic American cuisine. I couldn't help but notice that on a random Wednesday night they were busy. Despite the crowd, it was not hard to get a table and unlike most Manhattan restaurants the people in the restaurant did not create a deafening cacophony of chatter. Having asked for a sampling of their menu I was brought several appetizers. The first was a lamb merguez with garlic mashed potatoes. The lamb sausage was complex and flavorful with just enough spicy heat to leave a pleasant, warming aftertaste. Paired with the garlic mashed potatoes this dish is in my all time top ten. Next up was a gravlax served on a bed of baby mesclun. The gravlax was cured in house using a fantastic cut of salmon and then sliced thick. Even though I am not much of a fan of lox I have to admit this was very very good. Next our waiter brought us a plate stacked high with southern fried pickles. At first the concept of a deep fried pickle was slightly alarming to me and then I tried them. Crunchy and delicious, I implore everyone who reads this to go out and try it. They are inexplicably good. For our main dishes we sampled the pepper crusted fliet and the pan-seared red snapper over a sweet corn puree. Cooked to perfection, the fliet melts in the mouth and imparts that same pleasant heat that adds a real depth to the dish's flavor profile. The red snapper was clean and fresh-tasting and paired beautifully with the sweet corn chowder underneath it. For desert I was served a  Belgian chocolate souffle and an apple cinnamon bread pudding with a warm apple chutney. Any regular reader of this column knows how much I love chocolate, however, despite this fact and how amazing the Belgian chocolate souffle was, the shining star of my desert was the apple cinnamon bread pudding. Its texture was soft and light with a refreshing flavor reminiscent of french toast. The bread pudding is a must-try for any patron of Wolf and Lamb. After a fabulous meal I spoke at length with the maitre d', Zalmen, a member of the family that owns Wolf and Lamb. Zalmen told me that the goal of his family’s restaurant is to have elegantly presented delicious food without any pretension. They have made a point of making the restaurant as warm and inviting as possible and are always looking to add new and exciting items to their menu. After this visit I understood why my dating friend made a point of coming here so often. At Wolf and Lamb you can eat a gourmet meal on par with any other kosher restaurant in the city.

The difference is that if you wanted to you could also go to Wolf and Lamb and just get a burger or one of their delicious grilled sandwiches without needing to take a second mortgage on your home. You don’t go to Wolf and Lamb for special occasions because to do so would to drastically limit your exposure to this wonderful place. It’s the kind of restaurant you become a regular at, sample the whole menu and make a point of going to just because you can. A restaurant like this is rare in the kosher world and I am glad to have found it. Should you take my advice and begin frequenting this culinary jewel, look for me. I will be the one at the corner table eating the bread pudding and fried pickles.

Zechariah Mehler works in Kosher Marketing. Follow him on twitter @koshercritic