Talking stuffings, dressings for Thanksgiving

Every year, my mother made a delicious challah stuffing that she overstuffed into the 25 to 28 lb. turkey she made. The bowl of stuffing was huge (so huge that she also put some of the stuffing into a casserole dish and baked it separately). The turkey roasted for hours and hours and hours. I cannot imagine that the temperature of the meat was the same as the stuffing deep inside the bird. But no one ever got food poisoning. Late that night, my dad and I would come downstairs and break apart the carcass, picking out bits of the delicious stuffing. We never got sick!! And I miss those late night talks!!

However, what happened every year was that the turkey was dry and leathery-probably a result of the extra time needed for the meat to reach the safety zone of 165 degrees. Probably at least an hour more than needed had the turkey been unstuffed.

It took several more years before the FDA issued a safety warning that turkey should not be stuffed, that, too often, the internal temperature of the stuffing was as much a s10 to 15 degrees below safety levels. In fact, the USDA website states; “For optimum safety, stuffing a turkey is not recommended.” Over the years, they have walked that back a bit, advising that the stuffing reach 165 degrees in the center of the stuffing. However, they also advise that this adds cooking time to the turkey which may decrease the quality of the meat. If you must stuff, fill loosely, and only about 3/4 full.

We often use the terms “dressing” and “stuffing” interchangeable, but they mean different things. Dressing is cooked outside of the bird and is placed around the bird, to “dress” it up and make it look festive. It can be bread, rice or grain, or fruit-based. Stuffing, cooked inside the bird, is usually cracker or bread-based.

If you look at any cooking magazine, there are hundreds of stuffing/dressing recipes and nowadays, most of them are cooked outside the bird. Most stuffing/dressing recipes call for some kind of starch, usually bread or crackers, or whole grains, and almost all of these recipes call for some kinds of vegetables mixed with the starch. Some recipes are complicated, many are off limits if you observe a kosher lifestyle, and most are derivative of other recipes you have tasted or tried.

But, I’ll let you in on a secret — here is practically no way to ruin stuffing. You can think of stuffing like one of those “choose Your Own Adventure/Mystery Books,” that kids used to read. The story starts with the kernel of a plot and then tells you to go to a different page depending on what you think will happen. If you want the hero to slay the dragon, go to page 34. If you want him to call in reinforcements, go to page 45. And so on. Stuffing is like that. Start with a starch or grain of some kind. If you want savory, add some veggies, nuts, some broth, some herbs and spices and you have a stuffing. If you want a fruity stuffing, use fruits and nuts, broth or juice, fruit zest, etc. there is no limit to the possibilities. Virtually fool-proof!! You can also add kosher sausage, chestnuts or anything else.

There is no doubt that stuffing is one of the most popular menu items at the Thanksgiving table. There is also no doubt that if you ask anyone, “Who makes the best stuffing,” the answer will almost always be, “My mother.” So, enjoy mom’s special stuffing on Thanksgiving. It will always be — and should always be — the “best stuffing in the world.” However, during the other 364 days in the year, get out your imagination and make your own “best stuffing in the world.” Great for a winter Shabbat side dish.

Artichoke, Shallot, Ciabatta Bread Dressing (Meat, Pareve)

I made this one up when I had no crackers and several ciabatta breads in the freezer. I had read a recipe using artichokes, so I added those. I now make this every Thanksgiving and Rosh Hashana! It is NOT a stuffing, though that is what my family calls it!

3 lb. (3 to 4 loaves) focaccia or ciabatta bread. I use olive oil ciabatta bread.

1/2 to 1 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided

4 to 6 cups vegetable or chicken stock (not actual chicken)

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or canola oil (for the pans)

1 to 2 boxes chicken stock

3 to 4 large yellow onions, diced

5 cups chopped leeks

2 lb. Shallots, thinly sliced

2 to 10 cloves garlic, finely minced, your choice as to how much garlic

OPTIONAL: 10 ounces mushrooms, sliced

4 cans artichoke hearts, drained or frozen, thawed, more or less, to taste (you can use bottoms, diced)

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 3 to 4 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Set aside. Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes. Distribute evenly on the rimmed baking sheets and drizzle evenly with 4 tablespoons olive oil. Bake in the oven until light golden brown. Let cool. When cool, pour into a very large mixing bowl. Set aside.

Pour the stock into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently until reduced by about one cup. Remove from heat and pour over the bread cubes. Toss and let sit to absorb the liquid. Toss frequently to evenly distribute liquid.

Heat a large skillet over medium-low heat and add a quarter-cup of oil. Add the diced onions and shallots. Sauté until golden brown, 15 to 25 minutes. Add the leeks, mix well, cover the pan, and cook another 15 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 30 seconds. Add the mixture to the pan of bread cubes and mix well.

Heat the same pan, add a drizzle of olive oil and add the mushrooms. Cover and cook until the mushrooms release their liquid, 7 to 12 minutes. Add the artichokes and sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes. Add the to the bread cubes, add the seasonings to taste and mix well.

Pour into 2 very well-greased 9x13 casserole dishes and drizzle about 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil over the top of each. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 to 60 minutes, or until deep golden brown. Serves 12+. An easily be frozen.

Mostly Vegetable Stuffing Casserole (Pareve)

This is best made the day before and then reheated on Thanksgiving Day. I have made this ever since I found I had no bread one Thanksgiving, but had crackers. Now it is requested every year. Add your favorite additions and BE CREATIVE!

4 to 6 large onions

2 large cloves elephant garlic or 6 to 10 cloves regular garlic

4 to 8 large leeks, white part only, thoroughly washed

1 large bunch celery, washed and trimmed

1-1/2 lbs. carrots

4 to 5 pkgs. (10 oz. each) mushrooms, more if you like1 box (4 stacks) pareve, snack-type crackers, more if needed

Salt and pepper to taste

Canola oil for sautéing and to coat the pan

Process the onions, garlic and leeks in a food processor until they are finely chopped, about one-quarter-inch sized pieces. You may have to do this in two batches to avoid over-processing some of the onions and under-processing the rest.

Heat a large frying pan until a tiny splash of water “dances” across the pan and disappears. Add about 4 tablespoons of oil to the pan and heat through. Add the onion mixture and cook over medium heat until soft. Add a bit more oil if needed.

Meanwhile, cut the celery into inch-long pieces and add to the processor. Chop until the pieces are the same size as the onion pieces. You may have to do this in two batches, also. With a spatula, make a space in the middle of the onions and add the chopped celery. Cover the pan and cook until the celery is soft, about 5 minutes. Mix the onions and the celery together.

While the celery is cooking, peel and wash the carrots, cut them into inch long pieces and process them until finely chopped into pieces a bit smaller than the celery. Follow the same process and cook the carrots until soft. You may need to add a little more oil. When the carrots are softened, mix thoroughly with the celery and onions. At this point, if the pan is too full, pour the mixture into a very large bowl.

To process the mushrooms uniformly, cut them in half and only process about 5 or 6 ounces at a time. Add them to the pan as you process them.

If you have moved the onion mixture into a bowl, add a bit more oil to the pan and add the mushrooms. Cook the mushrooms until they give off their juices and then cook another 2 minutes. Pour the mushrooms and the liquid into the large bowl and mix all the vegetables together. Season with salt and pepper.

Rinse and dry the work bowl of the processor and finely process the crackers, one stack at a time, until they resemble cornmeal. Add the crackers to the vegetables as you process each stack and mix well. Season as you like and let stand about 10 minutes. The mixture should be thick, not soupy. You may need to add a few more cracker crumbs.

Add about 3 tablespoons of oil two roasting pan(s). Half-steam table size, throw-away aluminum, which is recyclable, is a good choice here. Make sure the pans are well-oiled and spoon the stuffing into the pans. Smooth the top and bake at 350 until well browned, about 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool a bit and serve very warm, but not hot.

Note: This stuffing is best made the day before and then reheated. Each half steam table pan serves 8 to 10. You should have two pans.

Traditional (Almost) Challah Stuffing or Dressing (Meat)

1 large loaf challah sliced and toasted

2 cups diced onions

2 cups diced leeks

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

2 cups diced celery

3 to 4 cups sliced mushrooms

1-2 cups chicken stock

1 Tbsp. dried sage or poultry seasoning

Salt and pepper to taste

1 stick Pareve, trans-fat free margarine or Canola oil for sautéing and coating the pan

OPTIONAL: You can add one or more of the following:

1 cup minced carrots

1 cup diced bell peppers

1 cup toasted walnuts, cashews, pecans or almonds

1 cup pine nuts

1 cup diced apples

1 cup snipped dried apricots

1 cup dried cranberries, cherries, currants or raisins

Toast the challah slices until they are golden brown but not too dark. Cut the slices into inch-square pieces, or tear them into pieces that size. Place in a large mixing bowl and set aside.

Heat a large skillet and add about 2 tablespoons of canola oil or margarine. Add the onions and leeks sauté until evenly golden brown. Add the minced garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

Add the celery and sauté until softened. Add the other optional vegetables and sauté until softened. Add more margarine or canola oil, if needed.

At this point, if you are baking the stuffing now, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Pour the vegetables into the bowl with the bread and toss to mix. Add more margarine to the skillet and add the mushrooms. Sauté until they give off their liquid, then spoon some of the liquid from the pan into the mixing bowl. Continue to sauté until there is no more liquid in the pan and some of the mushrooms have turned golden.

Add the mushrooms to the mixing bowl. Toss well to combine. Add the sage or other seasonings and any optional nuts, fruits, etc. you like. Mix well. Heat the stock and add one-half cup at a time, until the mixture is moistened but not soggy. Generously grease a large casserole dish or aluminum pan and add the stuffing. Dot the top with small bits of margarine and bake at 350 degrees until golden brown on top. Serves 10 to 14.

Traditional Cornbread Dressing (Meat or Pareve)

CORNBREAD

1-3/4 cups yellow cornmeal

1-1/4 cups unbleached flour

2 to 3 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. salt

1-1/4 cups plain almond milk or soy milk

1/2 stick pareve trans-fat-free margarine, melted

1 extra-large egg

VEGGIE MIXTURE

3/4 stick pareve trans-fat-free margarine

1 to 2 onions, chopped

3 celery stalks, chopped

1 red or green pepper, seeded and chopped

10 ounces mushrooms, chopped

1/2 tsp. salt, to taste

1/4 to 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 cups chicken broth or veggie

1 extra large egg

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt together in a large bowl. Whisk to blend.

In another bowl, blend the almond or soy milk, melted margarine and the egg. Beat with a fork until blended. Pour the liquid mixture into the dry mixture and mix with a fork just until blended.

Pour the mixture into a well-greased 9x9-inch baking pan and place in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. Let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees.

FOR THE VEGGIES

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add the margarine. When melted, add the onions and stir until golden. Add the celery and the pepper and sauté until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they give off their juices.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Boil for about 10 minutes until reduced by about 1/3.

While the veggies are simmering, break the cornbread into small pieces and place in a large bowl. Break the egg into a small bowl and beat just a bit. Pour over the cornbread and toss to mix. Add the veggies and toss to mix.

Pour into a well-greased 9x13 glass casserole dish and bake at 325 degrees until golden brown, about 30 to 35 minutes. Serves 6 to 8.

Bread and Nut Dressing with Apples (Meat or Pareve)

1-1/2 to 2 loaves (16 ounces each) pareve artisan white bread such as ciabatta, sourdough, country white (include crusts), cut into 1/2 inch cubes and toast

3/4 stick pareve, trans-fat-free margarine

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 stalks celery, chopped

4 apples (Golden Delicious, Granny Smith) chopped (peel if you like)

2 cups chicken or veggie stock

1/2 cup pecans

1/2 cup walnuts

1/2 cup other unsalted nuts of your choice (hazelnuts, pistachios, cashews)

2 Tbsp. sesame seeds

1/2 tsp. salt.

Freshly ground pepper to taste.

OPTIONAL: 1/2 to 3/4 cup raisins, chopped apricots, dried cranberries or cherries or other dried fruit.

Cut the bread into half-inch slices and cut the slices into cubes. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for about 5-10 minutes until lightly toasted. OR you can toast the slices lightly in the toaster and then cut the bread into cubes. Place the bread in a large bowl.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add the margarine. Add the onion and sauté until golden brown. Add the garlic and mix for about 20 seconds. Add the celery and stir. Sauté until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the chopped apples and sauté for about 4 to 5 minutes, mixing frequently.

Add the celery mix to the bread cubes and toss to mix. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to mix.

Heat the chicken stock in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil until the stock reduces to about 1-1/3 cups, about 10 minutes or less. Carefully pour the stock over the bread mixture and toss lightly. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Pour into a well-greased 9x13 glass baking dish and bake for about 40 to 50 minutes, until golden.

Note: For a great flavor, toast the nuts (375 degrees for about 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant) before adding to the stuffing. Serves 8 to 12.

Faro, Fruit and Wheat Berry Dressing (Pareve or Meat)

1-1/2 cups faro

1 cup wheat berries

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 red onions, diced

3 to 4 carrots, diced

3 to 4 stalks celery, diced

3/4 cup apricots, snipped

3/4 cup prunes, chopped

1/2 cup dates, chopped

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 to 2 strips orange zest, about 2 to 3 inches long and about 1 to 2 inches wide (no white part)

1 cup chicken or veggie broth

2 to 3 cups cubed roasted butternut squash

1/2 cup fresh parsley, minced or fresh chives, snipped or a mix of the two

Salt and pepper to taste

OPTIONAL: Some cooked wild rice, pecans or other nuts

OPTIONAL: Season with allspice, nutmeg, and come cinnamon to taste

NOTE: Cook the faro and the wheat berries in separate pots according to directions. When cooked, drain and set aside.

NOTE: Season this as you like. A drizzle of pure maple syrup is delicious as are warm spices like cumin and turmeric. All up to you!! Choose your own adventure!!

Heat a small soup pot or large saucepan and add the olive oil. Sauté the onions until lightly golden. Add the carrots and celery and sauté until softened, about 10 to 15 minutes total. Add the apricots, prunes and dates and mix well. Use a vegetable peeler and peel two or three strips of orange zest. Add the orange zest strips, the orange juice and the chicken broth. Mix well. Let simmer for about 10 minutes. Discard the orange peel.

Add the faro and wheat berries to the veggies and mix well. Add the parsley and/or chives and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a well-greased 9x13 pan and cover with aluminum foil. Bake for about 20 to 30 minutes until heated through. Serve 8 to 12.

To reach Joni Schockett, write: Columnist@TheJewishStar.com