Kosher Critic: Be bold at Le Marais

I used to frequently eat at Le Marais after I first moved to Manhattan, and ordering only a steak and fries, I thought of Le Marais as a simple steak joint and wrote it off in my mind. Then at last year’s Kosher Food and Wine Experience the Le Marais presentation changed my perception with a plate of their Chili Marocaine, which was a spicy lamb chili, served with a dollop of avocado relish. That chili made me realize that I had been drastically underestimating Le Marais because of my failure to order more adventurously. I went back to Le Marais to sample some of the best and unfortunately least ordered dishes on the menu.

I took a seat in a comfortable leather chair at a table situated in their upstairs dining area, ordering a flight (sampling) of beers from their truly impressive selection and told the restaurant manager to bring me anything and everything that was different or rarely ordered. Rising to the occasion, the kitchen first sent me out Les Rillettes du Boucher. Made from confit duck and veal and then turned into a pate, this dish is creamy, rich and delicious. Eaten with French bread crostini and a small slice of cured veal, this dish is by a wide margin one of the most extravagant and wonderful things I have ever eaten.

Following this dish was an equally excellent Magret de Canard Fume, a smoked duck breast that was served on a bed of French lentils that had been lightly dressed in vinaigrette. The duck was tender with a delicate smokey flavor that paired nicely with the al dente lentils.

For my main course I deviated from the standard steak and tried the Flat Iron Steak with a celery root puree and shimeji mushrooms. The steak is served with an Asian style barbecue sauce that is sweet and earthy and brings out flavor of the dry aged meat.

This in combination with the creamy celery root makes for a very hearty yet elegant dish. I also sampled the Jarret d' Agneau that is a braised leg of lamb in mustard sauce. The lamb was so perfectly cooked that it melted in your mouth and the tangy mustard flavor had been perfectly infused into the meat. This dish was paired with a rosemary spaetzel that helped temper the fat of the lamb with its mild ‘herbiness.’

Desert came next and resulted in one of the cleverest dishes I have ever been served the Fluffernutter a la Francaise, a comical twist on the common children favorite. Two slices of pistachio cake are sandwiched around a peanut butter mousse and then glazed with a marshmallow meringue. This amazingly delectable confection is nestled in a small pool of chocolate and banana sauce. This desert was the perfect end to a meal that was a truly unique dining experience.

Eating my meal, sipping one of my craft beers, I noticed the tables around me. They were filled with businessmen, shidduch dates, theater patrons, and countless others who like me in the past were eating steak and fries. I couldn't help but want to jump up on my seat and yell “for G-d sakes people try the Rillettes du Boucher.” I know that sooner or later you will go to Le Marais. You will have tickets to a show or get set up with a girl or maybe your firm will be hosting a dinner there. I am begging you to be bold with your order. I guarantee that you won’t be disappointed.

Zechariah Mehler is a widely published food writer and expert in social marketing. Follow him on Twitter @thekoshercritic